Reviewed by: Judy Kilpatrick on 6/14/00
Gone are the mirrored walls, glass-top tables, and hanging plants. Instead one walks into shades of Tuscany and walls adorned with well-framed small black and white original photos from family albums of owners Cusamano and Russo and large photos of the area before bridges, houses, and new roadways appeared. Tablecloths replaced the glass and lighting is more subdued and pleasant. There is a small front heated patio, but the interior is preferable.
We come here often for appetizers, because the selections are so good. While waiting for the Crostini di Fromaggio, a wheel of warm brie served with pesto, caramelized garlic and onions, and toasted baguettes, we can't resist the complimentary basket of warm thick foccacia slices topped with olives and tomato, seasoned with rosemary, and served with a decanter of herbs and olive oil dipping sauce. Nor is it easy to pass over the puffy triangles of that same foccacia bread––the Italian equivalent of nachos––topped with marinara sauce, mozzarella cheese, roma tomatoes and fresh basil. Here they are called Focachos and the generous portion serves two to four. One could be very satisfied with a full order of Vongole e Pomodoro, linguine and plump, meaty steamed clams with fresh herbs and sauce choice of garlic tomato wine or garlic butter herb. You'll need more foccacia to take advantage of the sauce.
Chef Francesca Armienti offers some 30 pasta variations, 9 handmade dough pizzas, and a like number of excellent chicken, lamb and veal entrees, creating dishes and adopting flavors from around the world. Her Fettuccine di Cajun gets your attention: cajun spiced pasta, blackened jumbo shrimp, tomatoes, bacon and bell peppers tossed in a spicy aglio sauce. So does a worthy Conchiglioni Ripiene, large pasta shells stuffed with vegetables, pesto, ricotta, herbs, coated with garlic cream and marinara sauces. Chicken breast pieces fill out pasta combinations in continuing favorites Pollo Voila, a marvelous melange of linguine, artichoke hearts, mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes, or Sesame Fusilli, to which green onions and sesame seeds are added. For every taste there is a pasta.
No slouching when it comes to desserts. A large tray selection, all made in house and containing lots of good calories in an ethereal tiramisu, mousse, layered cakes, or special desserts of the day. The service is very friendly, and Jack Russo is always on hand to be certain guests are happy. An upgraded wine list and new decor are pluses for this now ten-year old spot.
